Propagation Techniques - Bud Grafting

Bud grafting is easier than cleft grafting because you only transfer a small bud instead of a whole scion, and it's an easy way to propagate most fruit trees. You don't need to line up the growing layers or cover with grafting wax. It can be done during the growing season, any time while the sap is flowing.

A day or two before you plan to bud graft, collect 8 to 15 inch long stem pieces from the current year's growth of the plant you want to propagate. Put the bottom ends into a pail of water in a shady spot. Pinch off the leaves, but leave a bit of the leaf stem to act as handles.

Low on the rootstock, make shallow T-shaped cuts through the bark to expose the green growing layer beneath and gently pry the flaps open with your knife. Prepare the bud by placing the edge of your knife below a plump bud and use a sliding, upward motion to cut out the bud and a small sliver of wood behind it. Sever it from the bud branch with a horizontal cut just above the bud.

Holding the bud by the leaf stem handle, slide the bud behind the bark flaps of the T-cut on the rootstock. Wrap it tightly with budding strip or masking tape, taking care to leave the bud itself uncovered. If the graft is successful, the bud will be green and plump after a few weeks. If it's brown and dry, try rebudding on a different part of the rootstock stem.

Leave the healthy buds to grow for a year, then cut off the top of the rootstock tree on a slant the following spring, just above the successful bud.

Don't let suckers proliferate on newly grafted trees. Cut them off or they'll crowd out the grafted portion. Unless the tree is growing poorly, don't fertilize it for the first year. Wait until the second year after a graft to resume fertilizing as you normally would.

Propagation Techniques - Bud Grafting

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